Sunday, January 3, 2016

Warpsmith finished

So there' a theme happening if you noticed... time to stop building and start A LOT of painting.  Who am I kidding?  I can't stop building but I can slow way down, and in that regard the Warpsmith is finished minus the static grass.  It was a real pain to paint at times since it is whole with no subassemblies.  Old school I guess, build it then paint it.  The biggest thing I've learned, from the Sorc and this model,  it have it mostly together but not all the way.  Its makes things so much easier.  Lesson learned, it took awhile but it stuck.  Enough so that I haven't fully assembled my Havocs... legs, torso, backpack, gun arm, and gun are all together leaving the shoulder pads, and support arm off... so I should have an easier time getting to everything I want to reach.

Here's the final product.  A few things to note, it is much larger than it needs to be.  It sits on a 40mm base, and stands much taller than a marine.  So game wise it's a sitting duck, but with a 2+ save it should be ok most of the time.  Either way I didn't want a Finecast version of the Warpsmith because of the fragility of Finecast.  I've had smaller diameter pieces just snap right off and didn't want to shell out $30(US) for something that could break easy.  So all the tentacles are from a Necron Doomscythe and guitar string for strength and stability.


A lot of firsts on this model.  First time using oil based rust effects.  Loved that.  It can have a nice subtle rust effect that can be built up and if you want to add some more orange to it's nothing to add water to a small amount of Ryza Rust and dab that in place.  Used Nurgle's Rot for as well, and it's interesting but I don't see using it for anything else beyond what I've done here.  Accents for seepage or tissue breakdown.  The red was really simple, but so effective.  It really was just using GWs paints... Mephiston Red for the base, first layer of Evil Sunz Scarlet with an edge highlight of Wild Rider Red.  Layers were applied very thin, think translucent, to build up the color.  Once that was all dry, a glaze of Bloodletter was put on the red to pull it all together and it came out great.  Super pleased with how simple it was.  The metal and skin were completely different stories however, and involved a lot of touch up and a few restarts.  

At the time of this writing, I am currently finishing the base for one the Rapiers and I'd like to finish the other Rapier this evening.  Another Hellblaster Volley Gun is on the way to finish out the battery at 3 strong.  My beloved Auotcannon Havoc squad was rebuilt yesterday and a new Havoc unit built using Forgeworld's Legion Autocannon set I got forever ago.  Love those guns, hate the ammo feeds.  If you get them, plan on rebending the belts a few times to match up.  Also if you want to use Chaos backpacks, you'll have to trim them down a little so the ammo boxes fit.

Nifty trick if you don't want to use your Betrayal at Calth heavy bolters as heavy bolters, just clip the barrel off and glue an auto cannon barrel on.  Super easy conversion for a, IMHO, better gun.

So yeah, more painting and less building.


  1. That is some fantastic paint work. I have never used oil rust effects before; what do you use?

    1. Thanks Andrew, the wash I'm using is MIG Productions - Light Rust Effects. It's not a strong orange, so a more mild rust that can be built up with a few layers.


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    Light Rust Effects. It's not a strong orange, so a more mild rust that can be built up with a few layers.

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